You don't want the bracket to accidentally pop off the assembly when the tension is off the cables and the cables are removed from the pulleys this will also make more sense later on. Apply a piece of duct tape to the outside of the window, up and over the top of the door and then to the inside of the window. From the pics ive seen its easy enough to see if the regulator is broken and if its plastic i certain it will just need changing to a metal one. If you want to remove the window glass, just pull it out. If this is possible, remove the 10mm bolts, as described in step 10 and slide the clips off.
If you are not able to remove the window from the door because it wasn't possible, not because you didn't try , it may mean that one of the regulator clips is still fully or partially intact. The window glass is raised up and down by a set of clips yellow that attach to the bottom of the glass. This is the recommended method since the rivets are not destroyed and can be reused when reinstalling the carrier panel on the door. If your battery has boiled over and has acid overflowing out the top, make sure that you clean up any spilled acid immediately. The colorized image below illustrates how the window regulator system works. Specific differences between the passenger's and driver's door very few will be mentioned in the text.
Doing so reduces the number of steps necessary to remove the carrier panel from the door more detail on this is given below. Place a rag over the top of the door. One of the grooves is deeper than the other - the cable in the deeper groove needs to be removed last and installed first. The fact it's a bank holiday means I can't do anything for a few days now. There is a small cable stop on the end of each cable which fits into a hole on the underside of the clip body.
Once both regulator clips have been replaced, it's time to reinstall the regulator cable on the pulleys. Before doing this, note the position of the tab in the groove so that it can be reinstalled in approximately the same position later. The procedure below assumes that the window clips have not completely failed and that the window still works moves up and down with full range of motion. The local dealer didn't supply the car but have serviced it for the last two years. Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only.
It doesn't make any sense to me because why would they use different set-ups on the interior of the regulator? Go directly to step 10 skip step 9. If you can raise the window nearly out of the door, it probably means that both clips have definitely failed. Of note: this window has aftermarket tinted glass film. If you did not remove and replace both regulator clips at the same time for whatever reason , remove and replace the regulator clip on the other window track by following steps 12 through 22. Make sure that the cable is installed correctly on three of the four pulleys and then use a screwdriver to pop the cable onto the fourth and final pulley. If you remove the motor first you can easily pull or push the window up or down with your hands.
A repair kit for a mechanical window regulator does not exist. I didn't ask about the passenger side window but I'll mention it when I go up there and see if they'll do that one as well as a precaution. Comments and Suggestions: MartyK Comments: Of course its available separately. Now it's time to install the new-design clip onto the window track - the schematics below indicate how to do this. Steps 12 through 22 deal with the removal of the old-design clips and the installation of the new-design clips. Since the window may have to be supported by the tape for 1-2 hours or more, periodically check to make sure the tape is holding properly and is not peeling away from the glass.
Dealer knocked some money off, final bill was £190. I seem to remember a thread on here not too long ago that dealers were telling people that they had to replace the carrier as well as the clips but, in most cases, it's nonsense. The colorized image below illustrates how the take-up reel unit works. Remove the ten 10 10mm bolts that secure the carrier panel to the door. By entering this site, you agree to hold Pelican Parts free from any liability arising out of the use of any information contained within.
This allows the metal clamp portion of the clip to fall out of the plastic support, often resulting in the window falling into the door usually when both clips fail. If it's still not possible to remove the clips, you can always remove the cable from around all of the pulleys - this should allow you to move the clips fully up or down the window track. I have no idea how long the clips were broken and how much longer the remaining intact clips would have lasted. While the regulator is out make sure you check the condition of the poles on the alternator: they can be discolored but should not be excessively worn, corroded and should not have grooves worn in them. Once the panel is removed from the door, disconnect the harness connector for the door lock module by pressing down on the tab indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below and then sliding the harness connector away from the lock module.
Starting at the rear bottom corner of the panel, pull the bottom of the panel away from the door slightly, as shown below. It may be that the electric motor itself is the issue, or it may be a fault with the scissor-pulley system attached. Dousing the area with a water and baking soda solution should help considerably to neutralize the acid, and prevent it from eating away at the metal. Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. If your lock module is riveted to the panel, you have two options. Some think that this helps. To be sure, Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 - Nick at Pelican Parts Bk Comments: I changed the regulator but its still not charging, what might be the problem October 6, 2017 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The alternator stator may be faulty.