I would try a different scan tool to read fault codes. Anyway the valve I am talking about is located on the back of the block. The most important part is to use 100% synthetic for the turbo bearings. But I can not figure out where it is located on the N14 engine. Other greases, and silicone spray, cause the o-rings to swell, and then, you've have a swell time trying to get them in. If you see water moving amongst the valve springs, follow the water flow to the missing freeze plug.
If any of you has 2010 mini cooper s rattle noise and are looking for legal options , stay connected with me. It reveals how nicely you understand this subject. The current newest version can last 40K, 60K, 80K… it all depends on multiple factors but the biggest one is probably related to frequent oil changes, proper oil level and the type of oil. There is also another valve on the rear of the block that might be clogged. All I can find is info for the N12, N16 and N18 engine.
Ive heard about how great Mobil oil is and thats good to know about the removal of ll-01 off the label ill keep that in mind. This noise is louder on cold start up, and is less noisy or may sound like a normal engine sound once the engine is fully warm. It's taken me over a week, sometimes spoending wghole afternoons just trying to remove one clip, but I'm getting there. The non return valve can be swapped out by you. Before installation I compared bearing sizes and overall dimensions, but not thickness. Are you doing the crazy 12 month or 15k mile changes the dealer says to do? The versions of the Prince engine are known as the N13 and the versions are known as the N14 and N18. So yes as I pulled on the connection my water pipe came out, and I'm glad it did.
April 8, 2017 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Looks like a normal oil passage or head bolt hole. This Core Charge is refunded after a 'complete', fully assembled, rebuildable Core is returned. This is because the thermostat has a fail-safe mechanical function as well. My old R53 had oil pressure of when it was new at 120,000 miles…I attribute that to the oil and the frequency of changes.
The end of it that connects to the water pump was completely destroyed, like crumble in my hands destroyed. I know they usually stay closed when fail and causing engine overheating. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Pelican Parts is not responsible for any typographical errors contained within the site. Rather than just do the bare minimum to fix the problem, Bromer decided to throw frugality to the wind, and tap Jan Brueggemann at Revolution Motor Works to build him a stout engine that will withstand more boost and spirited driving.
You can browse all information online. Removing the boost tube is the hardest part to gain access to it, or it can be changed from underneath with a wobble bit or u-joint extension. Gallons and gallons of water. Shame thats the case especially with the turbo'd engines. This is the first reason that has lead to the myth that the pistons are weaker in turbocharged N14 engines than the N18 engine.
Timing tensioners have snapped costing just over £1,000 so far, still not fixed so costs just keep going up. Ordered a new one from Pelican at half the price Mini dealer sells it here in Spain. About 2 minutes running time I thought I heard a light tap when lightly bringing revs up 22-2800 revs…sounding like a classis con-rod knock to my ear. Over time as the tensioner gets even weaker the engine will start to rattle more. Fired her up as before…silent for 2-3 minutes. Unclear to me if the design was intended to fit the pre-revision cars.
A mech can tell any story to the customer and they will be forced to believe it. These pieces then fall down into the timing chain galley and do further damage…and in another recent case, got caught in the oil pump chain, and broke and stretched the oil pump chain nearly throwing that chain and causing oil starvation which would have been the end of the motor. This Core Charge is refunded after a 'complete', fully assembled, rebuildable Core is returned. Already replace the return hose assembly from the turbo; that wasn't it. Removed sump, popped 1 rod cap and found bearing shells had rotated to 90 degree position. Another thing is the sump plugs. Any answers or comments that you could share for some help would be great.
And just as someone stated in this comments already, it was preceded by a failed high pressure fuel pump. Some or all of the Core Charge may be forfeited if the Core is incomplete, dis-assembled, or un-rebuildable has catastrophic damage such as a hole in the side of the block. As more of the N14's start to fail, this deal is looking better ans better for the long run in reliability and oil usage. I'm not sure what the difference with your N14B16A engine, perhaps something to do with the operating temperature for Australia. With the push to get more new cars produced, broaden the product line, the life cycle has gotten shorter and shorter, and manufacturers have also taken other steps to outsource some major parts of the car to help in the rush to get this all done. Just transfer over a few items from your old engine and you are ready to go! So now I await the water pipe and a new pin.