Fuses blown under the hood. Hooked it back up and still has the same problem. I have a 1997 Gmc Sierra k1500. If anybody could help me start the diagnoses on the problem that would be great. My mechanic said he has seen this one other time and said that there were problems with the computer and had to replace the whole thing. The cables on this model mine is a 1988 Chevrolet K2500 5.
I usually lie under it, and just rest it on my chest while working on it. Conventional butt crimps are the method of choice. No start but after pulling some spark plug wires and cleaning the distributor cap it fired up again. I found that the stock harness was too short to lower the starter enough to unscrew the wire terminal stud nuts, which are garanteed to be corroded if the vehicle has been driven in a snowy climate with road salt. On my 1997 Chevy K1500 truck when the engine is warm if I turn it off for a few minuates when I restart it the starter drags slow but the engine starts. Mark mhpautos Alright, this is really funky.
With the harness extensions on, it will be much easier to connect them to the new or repaired starter and get it back in place to bolt up. Even a layer of silicon sealent would be helpful. I bled the fuel filter looking for air, but good fuel came out the top bleede. I plugged a diagnostic unit into the truck just to make sure, and it showed no codes; however I realize any codes would have been erased when I cleaned the battery terminals. Please or to join the conversation. It states it is for vehicle with air bag but the one without at bags is identical as this one.
One day it works, the next it doesnt. Though taking a second I had an epiphany. I peeled back the red cover on both leads reconnected using a shorter battery terminal nut and so far so good. I had one exactly like this one in the other day, A c1500 350 vortec. He looked up what should be normal and said that 55 was okay but if it was under then there are problems with the fuel regulator. I have a 1997 Chevy Silverado with a Vortec 350.
My friend is going to come over sometime this week and try and figure out what the problem is. What a difference in both fuel economy and performance that makes. This would be like turning a small section of the wire into a heating element and it could burn. Put the new solenoid on with the spring inside of it! You asked me to look down in the throttle and look for gas, do you think that this is will still tell me if there is a problem since it has warmed up and starts just fine? The starter itself can slightly distort from the heat making it harder for the starter to turn. I plan on keeping the truck so I figure that I am going to have to do it sometime down the road anyways.
And still having the same troubles. Fuel injectors can be a problem as well. Fuel Pumps are a Problem with that year. It started and ran for weeks until one day it would crank and when I went to go to drive it died. You could also solder the connection but there is an argument against solder on high current connections, especially in corrosive environments. It changed nothing, still the same old problem.
I'll also emphasize to disconnect the battery before doing the job. The mechanic put his pressure gauge on the fuel line and it read 55 while idling and then when he would give it some throttle it would then go up to about 63. I'm not knocking advance auto parts. I do not recall if my 2. My best assumption is that a sensor somewhere is not referencing and is telling the engine not to start, though it has all the necessary components to do so.
Of course I had to crimp on new ring style terminals. When starting my truck it often takes two or three attempts. In a perfect world, replacing the starter could be done in about 30 minutes, but if you run ito the same complications that I did, and wish to avoid any disasterous consequences, be prepared to spend an hour or two. I had to cut the harness against the studs and splice on about a foot of new wire to both the starter power cable and the solonoid wires. I will check it again tomorrow and see if I can get consistent. The only thing that I still notice is that you can feel a very slight miss while driving down the highway. Thank you so much for helping me through this.
Will check that out tommorrow when temperature is more favorable, 15 degrees right now. I eventually tracked my problem down to the ignition switch. Example: saturday start right up, drive it to walmart, then get groceries then run to my buddies house. Temperature also has no effect on the engine starting, as this was another failed theory of mine. I can't read the terminal sorry.
If it doesnt start again I will replace the distributor cap and rotor. But I think it was only two or three bolts to get it clear. I checked fuel pressure, it was 62 lbs, so I new it wasn't the pump. One thing he thought that was really strange was when you first turn on the ignition and all the dumby lights come on for there bulb check the service engine soon light does not come on. If there is voltage, the test lite comes on. Cap wasn't bad, bud boy was the rotor shot. It has been in the engine for about a month and the Tahoe starts like it is supposed to.