They have a clip to hold them on the spark plug tops and might require a bit of pressure to get them to come out 12. Remove the side bracket bolts 4 x 12 mm bolts orange dots in 19. Install 3 6mm hex bolts and torque to 12-15 ft. This is the drivers' side. If that doesn't loosen it, try tapping it to the side. Remove the four intake pipes from the front of the plenum 8 x 10mm this step can be done at any time 16. It's incredible how easy this is after a Blaster bath.
You will be able to see the connector that lies at the exposed end of the variable valve timing solenoid. Put the gasket or sealant on the covers and reinstall them 16 x insulators, 16 x phillips screws, 16 x 10 mm bolts. Use zip ties to secure the nipples. It doesn't take much to get a good seal and you don't want too much excess to spill into the passageways. Remove the plenum from the lower intake by removing the bolts on the top center 8 x 12 mm bolts 22. On the passenger side, disconnect the hose coming from the back corner of the plenum and going down to the turbo 1 x clamp.
Line the slots in the tensioner up with the bolt holes in the block and screw in 2 12mm bolts. The nipple leads to the passenger side recirculation valve. Keep in mind all three cylinders in a bank feed a single O2 sensor. Once the drilling is finished, the metal hose connector can be pulled out. Replace all fuel hose couplings with new high pressure fuelhose. Repeat for all 6 injectors. My midpipes just happened to be out of the car for these pics.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Remember to hook it up after the plenum is on. This very phenomenon manifests itself in the rough idling of the engine. It looks sturdy enough that you're unlikely to break it. The carbon canister hose on the driver side that was on the underside tubing will now need to be extended and joined on the balance tube when it's reinstalled. Remove the gaskets carefully scrape clean the mating surfaces if required, do not scratch any of the mating surfaces, so leaks my result , clean the covers up and paint them. Remove the upper fuel rail,regulator and damper most of 10.
Disconnect the O2 sensor yellow dot in 16. Removing the exhaust cam covers blue dot in 30. Remove the coil packs my pulling them straight out at the angle they are installed at. The wires might be trapped by keepers. Get them all started by hand. I just looped the wires back on themselves and away from the turbos and exhaust.
When this symptom is ignored, it can cause premature wearing out of the engine 4. Image 24 This ring is not part of the rebuild kit, so replace separately if necessary. It is now understood that these springs practically never wear out. I've been after it with pliers and can't get that thing to budge. If the throttle body water jackets are not being bypassed,attach the tubing with new hoses on the underside of the plenum 4 x 10mm bolts and a lot of hose clamps. Remove both safety boost cut solenoids 4 x 8 mm bolts 37. If I'm not going to use their function.
Put the oil cap back in place to keep debris from getting in the engine. Install the locking plates before placing 4 13mm nuts on the studs. Disconnect these and remove the plenum entirely 2 x clamps. Immediately cover the lower intake openings so no debris or bolts end up down in there 24. Remove the throttle bodies and mid linkage 7 x 6 mm hex head bolts mid linkage in 44. Screw them in lightly at first.
Any malfunction here can cause wastage of fuel or dip in performance. No torque spec is listed. There is a same size hose coming out of theback side of the plenum on the corner, disconnect it. Just had to pull all of the front off my engine trying to solve an annoying oil leak. I won't go into detail, but or are all the parts. Disconnect the small hose that is coupled with the small hose from the upper fuel rail off the brake booster fitting tree yellow dot in 20. Replace the plug from thepassenger rear corner of the plenum on the top 1 x 14 mm bolt.