A mirror is helpful in replacing this, but I managed to replace it without one. If you take it off the wire should read negative or ground to the frame the same potential. It is my understanding that a solenoid… The battery makes voltage available, but you must have a completed circuit including some sort of a load for current to flow. I have a 2001 Suburban with the computer climate controls and I am having this exact issue. Just go ahead and call the phone number at the top of the page and a friendly specialist will help you out.
Anyone ever measure what voltages are normal to speeds? Anything else I should be looking at? Best of luck to all. This is what I have been able to find about how to remove your blower. You can locate it by finding a 4 wire connector, directly below the glove box hinge towards the front of the truck. Anyone know where it leads? Your truck knowledge is missing! The harness where the black wire travels through the firewall to be attached to the rear of the passenger cylinder head, under the hood. That bump stop has to be flexed inward to allow the glove box to drop down fully. If it looks okay do a voltage test of the brown wire. Go to scrap yard with simple wire cutters and Phillips Screw driver.
If so, is there a way to test it? Don't forget the screw in the sill plate! You will need a nut driver to remove the screws. Also, the controls are unresponsive. Had to remove the glove compartment too. Fan quit working on all 4 speeds. Relays use a small voltage input to create a large voltage output. I pulled it and there is not sign of damage or burning.
This is a temporary fix for about a year or so. Is this for sure the resistor? I wanted to fix it properly, but I needed the Suburban right away. There will be a small latch that has to be lifted so that the cable can slide out of the slot in the glove compartment. The blower motor resistor is located under the glove box. We see you haven't yet.
I got the new part today and I got really excited and threw it in. Before I disassemble too much I thought it was time to consult an expert. Of course you will complete the destruction of the idle arm, but you're replacing it anyway. For more information go to. When an electric current runs through the electromagnet, it will move, hence it is sued to push or pull an object. I have exactly the same problem. Posted on Dec 28, 2009 The car uses the same freon in the front as it does in the rear.
Replacement brand parts are the most affordable solution for all of your replacement needs! The dark blue wire and the purple wire contacts inside the relay are connected to each other at all times, other than high blower operation. It should be removable with I think it is 2 10mm bolts with a socket. I need to replace the… The blower fan resistor on a 1997 escort is located on the blower fan itself, behind underneath the front passenger side glove compartment. Thanks guys for the help! Took my climate controls out and the fan continued to work, ended up pulling the 40amp fuse in the engine bay to shut it off so I don't kill my battery. I would like to know it you can change the relay and resister from behind the glove compartment? If you have 12V potential to frame frome black wire then something is wrong. Is there a way to test that? The common locations for the ground problem are at the rear of the passenger side cylinder head and at the connector shown above. When I put the fuse back in, the blower was doing the exact same thing! I replaced the temperature control unit the panel in the dash that has all the nobs on it.
Anyone have any ideas were to go from here!?!? What is this pointing to? Tried new blower motor in parking lot of AutoZone. I ordered my new blower control module online and got it today. Overall, I am pleased with Parts Geek and would buy from them again. When fan is on high the circuit bypasses the fan speed resistors and supplies 12 volts to the motor from this relay to the motor directly. Chevrolet C1500 Replacement Blower Motor Resistor Information Search our online blower motor resistor catalog and find the lowest priced discount auto parts on the web.
I think my motor has gone bad as I get continuity to ground touched dash brace to black wire and get continuity. The blower fan resistor is the part which the two blue electrical connections are. The job took me all of 15 minutes to pull the dash panel off, swap out the unit, hook the control module back up, and test it. If its the blower do you have to remove the bolts from the fire wall to take out the hole assembly? So I put the motor back in place and hook the purple positive back up and then ran a jumper from the negative terminal on the motor to a ground under the dash. The black wire will have ground at all times. Can someone help with either instructions or a schematic. One other thing is it was making a electrical smell burning smell.